Coldplay’s Guy Berryman Really Values Quality Design

LONDON — Coldplay’s bassist Guy Berryman insists he’s not a designer’s designer, but his label, Applied Art Forms, tells a different story.

The brand doesn’t carry his name; its base is in Amsterdam, and there are no season-specific collections. For example, the latest line, categorized under fall 2024, features clothing suitable for both spring and colder weather.

Noteworthy items include Gurkha shorts influenced by 1940s British military uniforms; vests modeled after fighter pilot rescue vests; pleated camouflage trousers in gray tones, and bomber jackets inspired by 1950s U.S. MA1 flight jackets.

“This is just what I like. It’s essential for a fashion label to have the leader’s unique touch, but you also need to incorporate commercial elements to keep the business alive,” Berryman said from his design studio.

All his designs revolve around garments he’s found during his journeys with Coldplay and his individual travels.

Berryman considers Japan a goldmine for utilitarian clothing. “The Japanese have a history of raiding American flea markets and bringing back the best items, so the really good stuff ends up in Japan,” he said.

“When I visit a city, I search for flea markets, thrift stores, vintage and charity shops. I’m not keen on buying new items; I’m more interested in finding character-rich objects,” Berryman added.

When collecting clothing, he treats them like artwork he’d display at home.

A significant portion of Berryman’s archive consists of outerwear, which is the core focus of the brand. He loves adding intricate details like adjustable drawstrings, convertible sleeves, and uniquely placed wrist fasteners.

“Outerwear is the foundation. They offer an opportunity to add complexity and detail, unlike T-shirts or hoodies,” he noted.

Berryman acts like an architect and engineer in the studio, fields he studied in university. Initially enamored with designing chairs and lamps, his interests eventually shifted to clothing.

Creating the vests in this collection has been a highlight for him. He added numerous pockets, which he believes “elevates the rest of the collection,” even if customers might prefer the best-selling T-shirts instead.

Berryman is aware of the line between business and creativity, but he doesn’t mind blending the two.

He acknowledges that the brand’s color palette in white, black, gray, khaki, and navy is “quite commercial,” but these are also colors he prefers.

“Starting and operating a fashion brand is incredibly challenging. It’s one of the toughest industries due to the sheer volume of products,” Berryman commented.

He ensures that his brand doesn’t follow the typical model of high initial prices followed by discounts. Pieces range from $177 for a T-shirt to $1,319 for a Japanese-made cargo jacket.

Despite devoting much of his career to Coldplay, Berryman is deeply committed to Applied Art Forms in his spare time.

He launched the brand four years ago and it’s growing steadily.

Applied Art Forms is now available at Mr. Porter, Dover Street Market, ModeSens, and LN-CC online. It has physical retail partners in Los Angeles, New York, Berlin, and Japan, where it has nine stockists.

Looking ahead, Berryman is optimistic but tight-lipped about future plans. “A lot is happening, but I can’t discuss specifics yet. There is change coming,” he teased.

He hinted at expanding the brand’s collections in the coming months and aims to make the brand more accessible.

Berryman’s focus remains on creating practical clothes with a design edge.

“I’m not interested in haute couture or flamboyant fashion. My preference is for practicality,” he explained.

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