The Ambani Wedding Amplified South Asian Fashion — But At What Cost?

Anant Ambani poses with Radhika Merchant during their Sangeet ceremony in Mumbai on July 5, 2024.

From July 12 to 14, Anant Ambani married Radhika Merchant.

This would have been a typical lavish Indian wedding if Anant wasn’t the son of Mukesh Ambani, Asia’s wealthiest man, and Radhika wasn’t the daughter of Viren Merchant, a pharmaceutical tycoon. The wedding spanned five months, culminating in a grand event estimated to have cost $600 million. Rihanna even performed during the engagement ceremony in March.

The wedding continued to flaunt images of luxury, attracting Bollywood and Hollywood A-listers, presidents, CEOs, and global elites. The red carpet was as much a fashion showcase as a celebration of union.

Fashion designer Manish Malhotra was the creative director, and the couple wore unique outfits by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla for the Hindu ceremony. Designs from Falguni Shane Peacock, Sabyasachi, Anamika Khanna, and Tarun Tahiliani also graced the event.

This extravagant event shone a spotlight on South Asian designers, gaining them global fame for their intricate couture pieces that blended craftsmanship with tradition. Radhika wore a dupatta by Anamika Khanna made of 1,000 fresh jasmine flowers for the Haldi ceremony, while Anant’s sister Isha donned an ivory lehenga encrusted with diamonds and pearls by Falguni Shane Peacock.

The press and social media marveled at the outfits, which are likely to influence wedding fashion trends for years. However, it also highlighted a portrait of South Asian fashion rooted in hypercapitalism. This excessive display contrasts sharply with the significant wealth inequality in the region.

The disparity was starkly evident over the wedding weekend. Images of the Ambani wedding’s red carpet, with guests in precious stones and fine fabrics, were juxtaposed against those of monsoon-soaked clothes from Mumbai’s working-class population, whose infrastructure was devastated by flooding.

Writer Poulomi Das aptly observed, “The Mumbai monsoons can be the backdrop for a wedding extravaganza only if you’re Mukesh Ambani.”

While some argue that the grandeur of the Ambani wedding dismantles outdated perceptions of South Asia as a deprived region, it also perpetuates a narrow narrative. True South Asian culture is rich in nuance, from saris worn by women in rice fields to gold jewelry handed down through generations. This cultural richness gets overshadowed by such ostentatious displays of wealth.

Young South Asians, both in India and abroad, have expressed their discomfort. One TikToker highlighted how the Ambanis’ wealth perpetuates inequality, noting that Rihanna was paid $9 million to perform, only to mispronounce Radhika Merchant’s name.

Another TikToker commented, “I think it’s okay to be a hater in this instance. Spending millions on a glorified Bollywood wedding in a country with over 290 million people living below the poverty line is mind-blowing.”

Perhaps our fascination with such spectacles reveals uncomfortable truths about ourselves. While we criticize capitalism, it’s the wealthy who command global attention. The red carpet, camera crews from “Keeping Up With The Kardashians,” and a private Justin Bieber concert made it clear: the wedding was more performance than celebration.