How the Crumpled ‘Dad Hat’ Became a £400 Catwalk Sensation

Rihanna sported a cap at the Dior couture show in January, pairing it with a glamorous skirt suit. Jennifer Lopez also embraced the trend in February, wearing a satin jumpsuit and baseball cap in New York. But it was at Glastonbury in late June when the cap emerged as the headwear of choice, seemingly dethroning the bucket hat.

For the past few years, caps have been popular among fashion enthusiasts, especially the “dad hat” trend where men opt for slightly crumpled caps often with embroidered slogans. In 2024, more women are adopting baseball caps to tone down even the most sophisticated outfits.

“I think in many ways, whatever you’re wearing, if you add a baseball cap, it instantly feels a bit more casual,” said Hannah Banks-Walker, Grazia’s head of fashion commerce, who has written about the trend. “[Lopez] pairing a leather baseball cap with her outfit is quite a funny juxtaposition.”

Marks & Spencer noted that baseball cap sales exceeded expectations by 30% this summer. The £12.50 cap worn by Sienna Miller in a 2023 ad campaign has sold 79% more than the same period last year. Lisa Illis, head of womenswear at the retailer, called it a “do-it-all kind of accessory.”

Vintage caps are also seeing a surge in demand. Depop, a resale app, reported a 22% increase in searches for baseball caps since March. Given its origins in sports—the first caps were used by baseball players in the 1860s—vintage sports-themed designs are especially sought after. Kendall Jenner popularized sports-themed hats last summer by wearing a Yankees cap. Similarly, Taylor Russell’s cap from the 1999 US Open has caught attention. Right now, New York Knicks caps are particularly prized on Depop.

The trend is also influenced by high-fashion designers who have embraced the baseball cap, with some costing around £400. Miu Miu featured caps in its Resort show in 2020, while nearly every model at Celine’s spring/summer 2021 show wore a branded baseball cap. Allyson Payer, senior editor of the fashion website Who What Wear and owner of around 30 baseball caps, said these runway collections have made baseball caps into “covetable It items that people would actually be willing to spend $500 on.”

However, there are budget-friendly options to make a fashion statement. One popular choice is from French brand The Frankie Shop, a favorite among celebrities like Gigi Hadid and Selena Gomez. Their £30.50 cap, featuring a minimal design with a small logo, was launched in 2021 and has seen sales double since last year.

Founder Gaëlle Drevet credits this to its understated style. “We designed [it] with a very minimal design and the smallest logo, in classic colors to keep it chic and elevated,” she said. “It brings that instant cool factor to your everyday look.”

Caps featuring witty slogans have also become a trend. IDEA, a London cult fashion bookshop, offers caps with phrases such as “Do you know who I am?”, “Intern,” and the bestseller “I don’t work here.”

The appeal of the baseball cap lies in its ability to prevent its wearer from looking like they’re trying too hard. “I’ve found that it’s fun to style them with slightly dressier things like full skirts, trench coats, and kitten heels,” said Payer. “Baseball caps make every outfit look a bit more effortless and cool.”

Of course, practicality plays a role as well. For many women, a cap is the perfect solution for a bad hair day. “If you don’t have time, or you can’t be bothered to mess about with your hair, it is quite nice to just get up in the morning and stick something on your head,” said Banks-Walker.

The baseball cap is proving to be a versatile and stylish accessory, cementing its place in women’s fashion whether on the runway, in a vintage store, or just as a quick fix for a busy morning.

Source: The Guardian, Depop, Marks & Spencer, Grazia, Who What Wear, The Frankie Shop