The Creators of Extravagant Fashion Designs

MUMBAI — More than four months of festivities culminated Sunday night as approximately 14,000 guests gathered to celebrate the wedding reception of Anant Ambani, 29, the youngest son of industrialist and business tycoon Mukesh Ambani.

The bride, Radhika Merchant, is the daughter of Shaila and Viren Merchant.

Mukesh Ambani, the richest man in Asia with a net worth of around $120 billion, and his wife Nita hosted a lavish celebration that surpassed the extravagant events held for their daughter Isha in 2018 and son Akash in 2019. Retail and fashion analysts remarked that despite the private nature of the event, it is expected to influence the estimated $75 billion wedding market in India, already a major driver for local fashion designers.

The level of glamour was unparalleled.

Top Indian designers, alongside thousands of weavers and artisans, created unique styles for the event’s guests. Celebrities attending the wedding at the Jio Convention Centre in the Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai, sported high-end designer wear. Priyanka Chopra Jonas donned a Tarun Tahiliani outfit, while Kim and Khloé Kardashian appeared in Manish Malhotra saris. Bollywood stars wore creations from designers such as Anamika Khanna, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Arpita Mehta, and Karan Torani.

The Ambani family wore designs from their longtime favorite duo, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla.

For the first time, the focus extended beyond the guests to the designers behind their outfits. “Ten years back it was more about buying what was available,” said Parthip Thyagarajan, CEO and cofounder of WeddingSutra. “But now it is all about personalization, customization, and high-end designer wear.”

Designer teams echoed this sentiment, noting that over 80 percent of the styles were custom-made for the event, with about 20 percent sourced from retail stores.

Despite some criticism regarding the opulence of the designs, Thyagarajan observed that the wedding would significantly benefit the industry. He noted that such grandeur encourages job creation and reflects a trend where families in metro cities share wedding expenses, rather than the bride’s family bearing all costs.

Traditional wear was the focus, with attendees ranging from Prime Minister Narendra Modi to top athletes and even the Kardashian sisters adopting Indian attire.

Celebrations began in March with a three-day prenuptial event at the Ambani home in Jamnagar. Radhika Merchant’s pink Versace gown at this event was later compared to her blue Versace gown during the May cruise celebrations in Europe. Celebrities such as Ivanka Trump, Bill Gates, and Hillary Clinton attended these events.

Special performances included a concert by Rihanna in March, reportedly worth $6 million, and during the European cruise, performances by Katy Perry, Backstreet Boys, and Pitbull. Justin Bieber, paid an estimated $10 million, performed at the sangeet ceremony. Other artists included Rema, Luis Fonsi, and Indian singers like A.R. Rahman and Shreya Ghoshal.

The wedding’s cost estimates varied between $350 million and $600 million.

All three Ambani children are now part of the family business, with daughter Isha heading Reliance Retail Ltd. and Anant, the youngest, leading the energy sector.

Reliance Retail is a major player in fashion retail, with its subsidiary Reliance Brands bringing top global brands to India, including Armani Exchange, Burberry, and Hugo Boss. The company has been closely associated with many designers at the wedding and has acquired stakes in Indian designer-led brands, including a 40 percent stake in Manish Malhotra’s label in 2021 and a 51 percent stake in Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla in 2022.

Here’s a look at the key designers chosen by the Ambanis:

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla: Longtime favorites of the Ambanis, they designed the bridal and groom’s garments for Isha and Anand Piramal in 2018 and Shloka and Akash in 2019. Their creations for Anant and Radhika’s wedding included a gold sherwani and a Swarovski crystal lehenga.

Manish Malhotra: Known for his glamorous designs, Malhotra dressed numerous guests and the Ambani family, featuring intricate traditional Indian craftsmanship.

Tarun Tahiliani: Renowned for his draped designs, Tahiliani created outfits for Priyanka Chopra Jonas and various Bollywood stars.

Anamika Khanna: A top designer from Kolkata, Khanna created a variety of outfits for the event, including a collaborative design with Dolce & Gabbana for Radhika’s reception attire.