New Hampshire Refugees Embrace Farming for Income and Home Flavor

In Dunbarton, New Hampshire, harvest season brings a unique cultural tapestry to the fields, showcasing the importance of agriculture for refugees from Africa. Farmers from countries like Burundi, Rwanda, Somalia, and Congo come together, sharing their native languages while balancing crates of fresh vegetables on their heads.

The morning sun breaks through the mist as these farmers cultivate both his American staples like corn and tomatoes and traditional crops such as okra and sorrel. The vibrant attire worn by many women adds to the colorful scene, creating a striking contrast against the green fields.

The majority of these workers are refugees who have faced the trauma of war and persecution. Farming offers them not only a livelihood but also a connection to their homelands. They’re establishing small businesses, selling their produce to local markets and within their communities.

“I like it in the USA. I have my own job,” said Khadija Aliow, a Somali refugee. As she playfully walks past a reporter, balancing a crate of crops, she exclaims, “Happy. I’m so happy.” Her joy reflects the sense of freedom and opportunity that many of these farmers feel in their new home.

This farm is operated by the Organization for Refugee and Immigrant Success, a nonprofit dedicated to assisting refugees by providing land, training, and support. The organization also runs similar initiatives in Concord and Boscawen, helping newcomers to create sustainable livelihoods in their new environment.

Currently, the farm employs 36 individuals from five African countries and Nepal, many of whom had agricultural backgrounds before arriving in the U.S. Tom McGee, a program director, emphasizes that these farmers are not just laborers but independent business owners working in partnership with the organization to thrive in their new environment.

“These individuals bring a sense of purpose and a way to integrate into the community and pursue the American dream,” McGee noted. The nonprofit also operates a food market in nearby Manchester, making fresh produce accessible while encouraging a community-oriented approach to farming.

Farmer Sylvain Bukasa’s journey to farming began after escaping the conflict in Congo in 2000. After spending years in a Tanzanian refugee camp, he settled in the U.S. in 2006, where he found both safety and the desire to reconnect with the food from his homeland.

“I was worried for my safety,” Bukasa shared. His nostalgia for the healthy diet he grew up with led him to take action, as finding traditional foods in local markets proved challenging and often expensive.

He started growing crops on the Dunbarton farm in 2011. Initially, the goal was to ensure that refugees had access to traditional foods for their families, but the demand surged during the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to the operation transforming into a commercial venture.

For some farmers, harvest season is their primary source of income, while for others like Bukasa, it’s a supplemental endeavor. He also works full-time at a car rental agency and dedicates his weekends and evenings to his farm, which spans just over an acre.

Bukasa faces challenges typical for small-scale farmers, particularly in ensuring his crops receive sufficient water and managing weed growth. On a recent Monday, he detailed a diverse harvest that included tomatoes, summer squash, zucchini, kale, corn, okra, and sorrel, known for its sour taste within his community.

He feels a strong connection to the Congolese community in New England, highlighting the appreciation they have for his crops. “It’s hard work, but hard work is good work,” he said. “I like when I satisfy people with the food that they eat.”

Bukasa envisions a future where he can buy a larger piece of land for farming, eliminating the daily commute to tend to his crops. His immediate challenge includes improving his marketing strategies. He finds himself producing more food than he can sell and dislikes the thought of waste.

He dreams of acquiring a van for deliveries, which would expand his reach and enable him to share even more of his harvest. Pointing to fellow farmers, he chuckled, “See how many farmers are trying to sell their produce.”

This dynamic farming community reflects resilience and determination, where each crop harvested signifies not only sustenance but also hope and the pursuit of a better life.

Source: Associated Press